The strict definition of an alpine plant is one that is native to the alpine zone - the area between the end of the tree line and the beginning of the snow line. More loosely interpreted, the term is used to describe any small plant suitable for the rock garden.

Please select a plant type for succesful growing and propagation details:

• Sedum
• Thymus
• Dianthus
• Zauschneria
• Aubrieta
• Veronica
• Campanula
• Ramonda
• Lithodora
• Omphalodes
• Phacelia
• Platycodon
• Arabis
• Cerastium
• Leontopodium
• Nierembergia
• Santolina
• Juniperus
• Alyssum
• Corydalis
• Primula
• Armeria
• Erinus
• Helianthemum
• Gentiana
• Lewsia
• Pulsatilla
• Saxifraga
• Erodium
• Geranium
• Saponaria
• Silene
• Iberis
• Sisyrinchium
• Soldanella
• Aethionema

What these plants have in common, as well as their jewellike beauty and diminutive size, is the need for good drainage. Because they look best planted together, and have similar needs, alpine plants are not dotted around the garden -where their unique charms might well be overshadowed by larger varieties - but are given a special place of their own. This may take one of several forms, including that of the rock garden proper.

In order to succeed, a rock garden must look as natural as possible. This means positioning the rocks (and they must be rocks, not rubble) so that only two-thirds of each one can be seen protruding from the soil; often rocks are tilted at an angle, but if so each one should be set to the same degree. They must be distributed on a slope. If your garden does not have a sloping corner in the sun, you can build one, making sure that for every 30cm/12in of height the rock garden extends 1.2m/4ft wide.

Building a rock garden is hard work and achieving a successful design undoubtedly takes talent. A rather easier alternative is a raised bed, which can be of any size as long as it is 60cm/24in above the ground. Raised beds look best if irregular in shape, with the sides treated as a dry wall. They are, incidentally, well suited to elderly or disabled gardeners.

Whether you take up the challenge of a rockery or opt for a raised bed, you must provide at least 30cm/12in of drainage material. Dig out the soil an extra 30cm/12in deep and fill it up with clinker, gravel or rough stones. Construct the rockery or raised bed a layer at a time, filling each one with a compost made up of 3 parts (by volume) loam (or any good garden soil), 2 parts peat, compost or leaf-mould and 3 parts sharp sand or fine grit. Add 2.25kg/5lb bonemeal to every 0.75m/1cu.yd of this mixture. When construction is complete, water well and leave the soil to settle. It will almost certainly need topping up as the level drops. Finally, strew an even, shallow layer of granite chippings over the soil (limestone chippings for lime-loving plants) and leave for 2-3 weeks before planting up so that any annual weeds that appear can be killed off.

You mav be lucky enough to inherit a handsome rockery. If not, it takes time, energy and some cost to build one (rocks are not cheap). Fortunately, the lack of a rockery does not mean that you have to give up the pleasure of growing this exquisite group of plants. As long as you observe their paramount need for good drainage, you can also grow them in shallow troughs and pans or even in the cracks between paving stones on patios, paths and steps. Stone troughs look wonderful planted up with a selection of alpine plants. This particular version of container growing makes it possible to include a wide number of different plants in a confined space, thanks to their small size. You can create a living patchwork of colour, choosing from the list of plants below, or confine yourself to a range of blues and pinks, perhaps - gentians and campanulas, dianthus and primula, beautifully set off by the weathered grey of old stone. Sedums and saxifrages are two of the easiest alpines to grow and make excellent companions in a trough garden.

Most alpines are sold as pot-grown plants which can, in theory, be planted at any time, but autumn and spring are best. Autumn planting allows the plants to establish themselves before winter comes. Spring planting means that the plants will start to grow away at once, but you will not see them at their best until the following year.

Alpines need watering until they are established, but not after that unless there is a long period of drought. In such conditions, water very thoroughly in the evening so that the water can soak through the soil all night.

Many alpine plants, and in particular alyssum, helianthemum, dianthus and veronicas, benefit from being cut back quite severely when flowering is over to encourage fresh growth and keep the plants compact.

Many experienced gardeners have highly prized collections of alpines, but this should not make the novice feel wary of growing them. Indeed, a trough of alpines is a good way to give children a suitable-sized garden of their own. In smaller modern gardens, too, or wherever there is a sunny corner, however tiny, alpines are the perfect choice.

ALPINES FOR CONTAINERS

• Alyssum
• Gentiana
• Saxifraga
• Arabis
• Helianthemurm
• Sedum
  
• Aubretia
• Juniperus
• Sisyrinchium
  
• Campanula
• Primula
• Veronica
  
• Dianthus
• Ramonda