Shrubs give the garden an established appearance, forming the main framework of most planting schemes around which perennials, annuals and bulbs are grouped.

Please select a plant type for succesful growing and propagation details:

• Forsythia
• Cytisus
• Chimonanthus
• Jasminum
• Seneco
• Thunbergia
• Fremontia
• Potentilla
• Philadelphus
• Hydrangea
• Deutzia
• Magnolia
• Ceanothus
• Ipomoea
• Mahonia
• Passiflora
• Clematis Hybrids
• Clematis Species
• Rhododendron
• Azalea
• Fuchsia
• Camellia
• Spirea
• Enkianthus
• Floribund Roses
• Old Roses
• Hybrid Tea Roses
• Climbing Roses
• Syringa
• Erica
• Wistaria
• Choisya
• Lonicera
• Viburnum
• Pieris
• Chaenomeles
• Pyracantha
• Fothergila

As in all garden schemes, the principle behind choosing and siting shrubs is balance, for example between evergreen and deciduous species. Although all the shrubs in this chapter have been selected for their flowers, there is no denying the importance of foliage. An equally important factor is the season of interest. In a large garden with numerous shrubs you can include some specially for each season; in a smaller space with room for only two or three, it is a good idea to go for those that have something to offer all year, or at least at more than one time. Mahonia aqui folium `Atropurpurea', for example, is an evergreen which flowers in mid winter, bears berries in spring and summer, and whose foliage turns a lovely red in autumn. Other worthwhile evergreens include camellia, Ceanothus impressus,

choisya, Erica carnea, pieris and many rhododendrons. Spring-flowering shrubs are particularly useful at a time when most of the colour in the garden is at ground level, provided by swathes of bulbs. Try to limit the number of yellow-flowering spring shrubs, as there is likely to be a strong yellow element anyway at this time. For white, pink and red, try Magnolia stellata, rhododendrons and azaleas, enkianthus, choisya, pieris and chaenomeles.

It is a characteristic of the modern border that shrubs are included to add height and texture to the display. In summer, old roses, potentillas, fuchsias and spiraeas combine particularly well with other plants. Climbers at the back of the border complete the picture, whether against a fine old wall or a wooden fence. It is difficult to make a choice between such delectable species as clematis, climbing roses and honeysuckles (Lonicera species). Because many honeysuckles are fragrant they are often planted against the wall of the house, next to a window so that the scent will waft inside. Other scented shrubs are philadelphus, choisya, lavender and lilac.

Increasing emphasis on winter colour in the garden has put the focus on shrubs such as Chimonanthus praecox (winter sweet) and Jasminum nudiflorum (winter-flowering jasmine), two yellow-flowering species. The viburnums V. tinus and V. farreri both bear white flowers during the winter; consider too the little-known honeysuckle Lonicera x purpusii, which bears small, scented, cream flowers for many weeks in the middle of winter. For cold-weather glamour, nothing can outclass the camellia, with its huge red, pink or white flowers.

PLANTING SHRUBS Like trees, shrubs are sold barerooted, with a ball of soil around the roots, or in containers. Those in containers can be planted at any time of year as long as the soil is not allowed to dry out. Bare-rooted and balled-root shrubs should be planted between autumn and spring (see individual entries for variations). Cut off any damaged roots from bare-rooted specimens. Plants in containers should be well-watered before planting.

1 Take out a planting hole to a depth such that the old soil mark on the stem, or, on a container-grown plant, the base of the stem, will be level with the soil. Fork over the soil at the bottom of the hole.

2 Mix the soil from the hole with half its volume of well-rotted compost, manure or peat.

3 Remove the plant from the container and place it in -he hole. Do not remove sacking from a balled-root shrub mtil you have placed it in the hole. Holding the shrub by its stem, replace the soil in the hole, tread it down and top p with more soil. Tread the soil down again and water in generously.

4 When planting a bare-rooted shrub, spread the roots .it and lift the shrub up and down a few times to make sure the soil settles around them.

PLANTING CLIMBERS Some climbers are self-clinging and need no supports; where supports are required, it is essential to put them securely in place before planting. Wide-gauge plastic netting is suitable for a wide range of plants and soft enough not to damage delicate stems. A system of horizontal wires is efficient and inconspicuous. Whichever you use, mount the mesh or wires on battens to keep them at least 2.5cm/1in clear of the wall so that air can circulate. Start training the climber to the supports as soon as its tendrils become long enough to encourage it to grow in the desired direction.

When planting, follow the instructions for shrubs, but remember that because soil at the foot of a wall or fence is relatively dry, you need to give it a good soaking the day before planting and keep it moist afterwards. Do not set the plant too close to the wall or it will not benefit from rain - 30cm/12in is the correct distance.